§1. Polyethylene gas pipe and forge welding of plastics [00:03]
[Tom holds up a piece of polyethylene pipe.] This is a piece of polyethylene pipe. The gas industry was tired of all the steel pipe corroding in the ground after fifty, sixty years and having to replace everything. Plus they didn't like it when houses blew up. So they wanted something that was corrosion resistant, and polyethylene will be around for millennia. There aren't a lot of bugs that eat it. But how do you put it together? They weld it. It's hot pressure welding. They take the two ends of the pipes, machine them flat, put a heater in between, pull the heater out when it's hot, and squeeze it together. You extrude out the contaminated surface, because it is still a contaminated polyethylene surface. Polyethylene has a very low surface energy, so it doesn't want to attract very many things. If it's got a lower surface energy to begin with, it's not going to get contaminated.
Metals have a high surface energy inherently, because they have long-range electron bonding. Plastics have very low surface energies and so they're not as easily contaminated, but they still will have water vapor and oils potentially on the surface. If you look very carefully at this you can actually see there are some residual stresses, because when you heat it up you're only heating up this end and the pipe expands. When you squeeze it together and then it cools back down, you'll see it's slightly dished in. It's got a shape with the extrusion and the joint here — this is the centerline, so it's slightly dished in. Because of that, while these things are strong enough, they're not great for impact resistance. If you're going to bury it in the ground nobody should be hitting it hard, although people come along with backhoes, and that's not a good thing. You should call Dig Safe before you dig. If you don't, there will be an explosion and someone will call in someone like me to say, oh, you broke the pipe.
Student: Is shielding gas used?
No, just straight air, because you like to have dry air — you don't want to be doing this in the rain. It's done outdoors. They just go down in the pit where they're laying this pipe with an electric heater, and if you go through the thermal conductivity of the plastic, it takes three or four minutes to heat this thing up back a quarter of an inch or 3/8 of an inch on each side, and then you just extrude it together. It's basically a forge weld. Weld in plastic.
Student: If you were able to put a twist, would it be more like a friction stir weld? Would that improve the bond?
It's not going to improve the bond, because the twist is not going to push the contamination out. You want to get the contamination out, and you've extruded it out by just squeezing it together. If you twist it you're just smearing it around. You want new material, you want a new surface, you want shearing in the proper direction. You're right, I can get shearing by twisting, but that doesn't get the junk out. You need to get the junk out, and then twist.
Student: Because what I'm thinking about is avoiding a mold line.
In fact you do have a mold line, and the reason this is weak is there's no polymer chains going across that interface. In terms of strength it's not bad, but in terms of impact energy it's lousy because there's nothing going across here.
That's the problem in joining plastics in general: you can't get polymer chains going across the interface. They don't diffuse — they're too big to diffuse — and so you always end up with a strong demarcation which is just van der Waals bonding. Now we know in theory van der Waals bonding can give you tremendous strengths, but in fact you get imperfections and voids at the interface, and it doesn't give you great strength. If you do a tensile test you can set parameters such that you'll probably fail in the base material, or you'll fail at a substantial fraction of the yield stress. But impacts are still a problem. Creep too, if you put this under tension. But it's supposed to be buried in the ground, so this application is not a bad application. I know they're concerned about impacts, but I have never seen a failure of this stuff. Most of the gas pipe failures are old cast iron pipes that were put in a hundred years ago that have just corroded. Or smaller-diameter steel pipes that were put in sixty years ago. In fact those steel pipes that were put in sixty years ago probably perforated about thirty or forty years ago, but it's in moist soil, and the soil basically plugged the leak.
Anytime you dig up around where there are gas pipes, you know that you're going to open up leaks. Twenty years ago one Sunday morning at 7:00 my neighbor calls me and tells me there's water bubbling up between the sidewalk and the driveway in front of my house. Sure enough, they had planted a tree on top of the water box sixty years before, and eventually the roots of the tree and the corrosion caused the water box to break. So I call up the town water department and they come out on Sunday morning, and I'm standing there at 10:00 and they're digging. As they're digging I start smelling gas. Just then — it was Boston Gas back then — the gas truck pulls up. As I'm smelling gas, they had just uncovered the pipe. One of the guys next to the backhoe operator jumps down in the hole, takes some chewing gum out of his mouth, and plugs the hole in the gas pipe. I said, how do you guys know to call Boston Gas? They said, we call them whenever we start the work, because we know when we uncover the pipe we're going to uncover a leak. So all the gas pipe out there is leaking.
A few years later — they come by like every three years and stick probes in the ground to see how much natural gas is in the ground — at my house and another house six or seven houses down, they found so much gas that they came in and sleeved the steel pipe with plastic pipe. They have little connectors that they've developed over time to be able to connect steel to plastic. Manual connectors with compression seals between the metal and the plastic, and they usually work pretty good. There's another story that goes on with that but I won't tell it right now. It did fill up my house with gas one time, but it didn't blow, or I wouldn't have that house. So that's another form of pressure welding. It's hot, it's not necessarily cold.
§2. Cold welding and the oxide-to-metal hardness ratio [07:43]
I wanted to talk about metals and what metals are easiest to cold weld. There's a guy Tylecote who back in 1954 in the British Welding Journal did some studies on what metals are easiest to cold bond, basically with just normal compression hardness where you're extruding things out — you don't have a lot of shear. He found that with indium, he only needed a 10% deformation of two indium pieces before he could get a fairly strong bond. There's data on this in your notes that I handed out. Aluminum is the next easiest, then tin, and then you get down to more structural materials like iron and copper. Indium is by far and away the easiest material to cold bond by just squeezing it together.
The reason he found was — he plotted oxide to metal hardness ratio. If you think about it, the harder the oxide, the less you're going to smear the oxide across the surface. Copper, which has a relatively soft oxide, and silver, which really doesn't have an oxide but has a sulfide — silver sulfide is very soft — basically if you try to squeeze two pieces of copper or two pieces of silver together, that silver sulfide or copper oxide just smears across the surface. You might be creating new surface with your deformation, because down at 80% deformation you've increased the surface by fivefold, but all you've done is smear that layer of oxide thinner and thinner.
Indium is a very soft metal. I wouldn't say its oxide is extremely hard, but it's not soft. It has a very high oxide-to-metal hardness ratio. What happens is when you squeeze it together, you deform the indium and these little islands of hard oxide break up, exposing indium between the cracks. So indium is the easiest. Aluminum has a very high hardness oxide — sapphire or corundum is number nine on the Mohs scale of naturally occurring materials, number two behind diamond. The harder the oxide and the softer the base material, the easier it is to deform the base material without just smearing your oxide across the surface.
So why is that important? It's not as important now as it used to be, but about fifty, sixty years ago when they were still making single transistors — or even sometimes today in critical applications like some nuclear weapons which we don't know about — when they have to bond something at room temperature and actually get a true metal seal, they will often use indium. They used to have single transistors, when they went from vacuum tubes to transistors: a single silicon chip with several leads coming in the base, and a little metal can on the top. That little metal can was just squeezed on, and you had a little bead of indium. You were making an indium solder bond at room temperature. So it was used many years ago.
§3. Adhesive bonding: Type I (surface tension) [11:30]
Now I want to go to adhesive bonding. Adhesive bonding is different than these two rules I told you. If you're going to get a good bond, you have to get rid of surface roughness and you have to get rid of surface contamination. Adhesive bonding, whether you believe it yet or not — I'm going to try to prove to you — gets rid of the surface roughness by interposing basically a liquid. That liquid may be a fairly high viscosity liquid initially, but usually it turns out to be a lower viscosity liquid. You get rid of the surface roughness by interposing a liquid that fills the hills and valleys of the surface roughness. Adhesive bonding is unique in that it does not get rid of the surface contamination. It just buries it beneath the surface. As a result, you've got to clean the surfaces. If you want to get good adhesive bonds, you have to get off the easy things — like grease — with a detergent. You may not be able to get rid of the oxides or some other contaminants on the surface, but you want to get the highest surface energy possible and get rid of all those low surface energy greases. Anybody knows if you put oil on the surface and try to stick Scotch tape to it, it doesn't bond, because oil has a very low surface energy.
[Tom holds up a book.] This is Fundamentals of Adhesion, edited by people who worked at Xerox Corporation research labs in Webster, New York. On page six they start with the Lennard-Jones potential and bringing two atoms together — that's for a perfectly clean surface. They're not really starting where you need to on adhesive bonding, which is where you have an oxide surface, a dirty surface. On page four they have gluons and adhesion of nuclei. The name gluon, created by physicists — gluons are those particles binding quarks together, and quarks have been postulated to be constituents of protons and neutrons. Do I really care? Typically that's where that book goes. I'm going to retrieve this because I have to use it next year. You don't know how many times that book has been in the trash. This is sort of the approach of some scientist who starts all the way back at gluons.
We're going to start at the engineering end. We're going to assume we have a relatively clean but still oxide-contaminated surface, and we're going to look at what really creates the strength of an adhesive bond. Some of this is sort of my terminology that I've developed over the years. I have two types of adhesive bonding. When I talk about type one and type two, that's definitely Tom Eagar. This comes out of the Handbook of Adhesives, third edition, by Irving Skeist, who was a consultant in the adhesives business. I can't find my second edition with the blue cover — I think I loaned it to somebody and they kept it on the no-return plan.
Type one is surface tension. [Tom writes on the board: type one = surface tension.] We're going to see how surface tension will actually hold materials together. Steve, you've seen me pull out the Johansson blocks before? You haven't? Okay, so you haven't had all my little demos. [Tom locates and opens a case.]
Does anybody other than Matt know what a Johansson block is?
Student: I've seen it in your class only.
Johansson blocks are length standards. I have a little certificate here that traces the dimensions of these blocks back to the National Institute of Standards. This is the Starrett-Webber Gauge Division. All Masters and Grand Masters are calibrated directly by the National Institute of Standards and Technology in Gaithersburg, Maryland. These are not Masters or Grand Masters, but they're accurate to about 50 microinches. If I look at my certificate it might tell me these things are accurate to 1.7 microinches, which is plus or minus 0.04 microns. These are 2-inch blocks. They have to tell you the temperature — 20° C — because if I change the temperature 2°, they're that much longer or shorter. The end surfaces are polished. A machinist who wants to measure something better than he can with a micrometer will ring them together. They're supposed to have a slight oil film.
The first ones I bought were hardened steel, but they rust over time if you don't take care of them. I now have bonded these together just because they have very flat surfaces. There's still surface roughness, but it's polished, so small surface roughness. I've interposed a liquid film. It's not the strongest bond in the world. You'll have the opportunity to calculate the adhesive strengths of these things in the problem sets. [Tom passes the blocks around.] You have to ring them together and shear them. To get a little grease, machinists usually take the oil from their hands. Most people have enough oil in their hands.
Here's the formula for type one adhesive bonding. The difference in pressure between the inside and the outside of the adhesive — out in the air versus inside the adhesive — is just the surface tension of the adhesive times the curvature. If I have an adhesive that wets the surface, there's some liquid-vapor surface energy here, and the curvature is just 1/r + 1/R where these are the two principal radii of curvature. The little r is negative if it's a wetting surface. So it's 1/R minus 1/r. 1/R is very small compared to 1/r, and so the whole thing just becomes minus gamma over r. It's negative, so the pressure inside is lower than outside. You have a pressure differential holding these together. This is type one adhesive bonding. We're not talking about any roughness of the surface, just the surface energy and the distance of separation. The thinner the joint, the stronger the joint. If you get a little bit too much dust on those, you can't ring them together close enough — they have to be dust free. You're getting something on the order of a 5- or 10-micron-thick joint. It may be just my chalk dust — I may have contaminated them enough. Oh, they're working now.
§4. Adhesive bonding: Type II (mechanical interlocking) and anodized aluminum [23:08]
Type two adhesive bonding — again, this is Tom Eagar's type one and type two — is nothing more than very rough surfaces. It's mechanical interlocking. [Tom writes: type two = mechanical interlocking.] Type two is the predominant type of adhesive bonding. Not always — if I'm going to glue the mirror attachment to the inside of my windshield, if I'm General Motors, that's type one adhesive bonding, because that glass is smooth. There's no mechanical surface roughness to the glass. On the other side, you might introduce some mechanical roughness. Many times, if you want to strengthen the bond, if it's type two bonding, you actually take some sandpaper and roughen the surface. There are times when having a little bit of surface roughness even in type one, as long as you don't destroy the thinness of the joint, increases the surface area and can enhance the effective surface energy of the joint.
If I want to bond aluminum for aircraft — [Tom holds up a sample] — this is anodized aluminum, series 2024 aluminum, typical standard aluminum sheet metal. Here's an SEM micrograph, and here's a drawing. Essentially when you anodize aluminum, you put it into a bath — in this case let's call it a sulfuric acid bath. There's also chromic acid anodization. I think chromic acid gives a little bit better bonding, but you have to deal with hexavalent chrome which is a carcinogen. You run the current and make your aluminum substrate the anode — that's why we call it anodizing. You're corroding the aluminum, bringing oxygen to the surface, growing an oxide. We call it growing an oxide film, but actually it has to be a porous film, because aluminum oxide is a great insulator, and there has to be some channels for the oxygen to get in and the electrons to flow in a liquid. So you're actually building little cells of aluminum oxide. It's a very porous structure.
If I anodize aluminum and I want to use it for adhesive bonding, I've increased the mechanical surface roughness. I slap my adhesive on there and I get a great bond strength. If I had not anodized, if I just went with an as-sanded aluminum surface, I might get one-fifth the bond strength I'd get on an anodized surface. If I'm anodizing the aluminum because I want corrosion resistance, then I have to seal the anodizing — and this is not talking about adhesive bonding, this is talking about some window frame or door frame that we're putting the anodizing on instead of paint. You've got all these pores and you want to do something to seal it. You seal it by boiling it in hot water. Now I'm not trying to pass any current through it, I'm just boiling it in hot water, and I will grow and fill up those pores and get a continuous aluminum oxide coating. So you have to be careful about this.
The first time I was ever down on Cape Cod, I went down there in the middle of a 6-inch snowstorm because some guy here in Boston had bought a nice new 40-foot sailboat. It had a nice wooden gunnel with anodized aluminum rails up above the wooden gunnel — the sides of the rail of the boat. The aluminum was pitting. It was only a year old, and it was going to cost a fortune because you had to remove all that beautiful mahogany woodwork in order to lift the aluminum rail off. He wanted to know why it was pitting. I had to go down there in the middle of the snowstorm and look at it, and I determined that whoever had anodized it forgot to seal it. They didn't know that if you want corrosion resistance for your aluminum oxide you have to continue the process after you form the porous coating. You have to seal it by making continuous coating. But if you're going to use it for an adhesive-bonded prep surface, you don't want to seal it. You want to leave it nice and porous. So it's mechanical interlocking.
Here's some data from that same materials handbook. Here's chromic acid anodizing — crack length versus time. You're loading it up to a high level and seeing how long it takes. There are different types of anodizing acids. You can anodize lots of metals — unfortunately not iron, because if you try to anodize iron you're just going to form rust. The rust has a larger volume than the underneath steel, and the iron hydroxide that forms just flakes off. So you can only successfully anodize things where the oxide-to-metal volume ratio — what they call the Pilling-Bedworth ratio — is such that the oxide will not just flake off or shrink. Some things actually shrink in size and they crack like a dried river bed.
I drew niobium wire, and I used to anodize it in ammonium hydroxide solution. Just put a little ammonium hydroxide in a long tube of glass, filled it up with solution, used a 45-volt battery, and stuck it on. Got all this bubbling going on because of the oxidation, pulled it out, nice beautiful blue color. That would hold the lubricant for the wire drawing very well, because I had this porous anodized surface on the niobium.
Twenty years ago, colored titanium jewelry was popular. I remember reading something from the Worshipful Guild of Silversmiths or Goldsmiths in England — jewelry makers. They were saying that the best material to anodize titanium to get the different colors — and you get the different colors by how long you anodize it; it's a different thickness of the inorganic coating that will refract the light differently, so at different voltages you'll get different thicknesses — on titanium you get brilliant yellows, some reds, and eventually blues and purples when it gets fairly thick. Their favorite material for the Worshipful Guilds was Coca-Cola.
I never did ask whether they use Diet Coke or leaded Coke. Diet Coke is nothing more than phosphoric acid. Coke was developed at a drugstore in Atlanta, Georgia. The guy basically took what were called phosphates — people used to drink phosphates, sodas — and he added some cocaine to it. I'm sorry, yes he actually did. It wasn't cocaine like the purified stuff we have today, but he added it — that's why it's called Coca-Cola. You can go look it up on Google. There are other soft drinks that started out as drugs. Anybody know which one I'm thinking of? Seven Up, back in the '30s, was lithiated lemon-lime soda. Now lithium is used as an antidepressant, but in the old days you could drink a Seven Up. You can go on eBay and find labels from the '30s of Seven Up being a lithiated soda. I once mentioned this to a guy and he said, that's ridiculous, that can't be true. He bet me — he said, I'll give you $500 if that's true. I went and looked it up, sent him the links, and he sent me a check for $500 and I never cashed it. I sort of like Mitt Romney's $10,000 bet.
§5. The Stefan equation and the kinetics of adhesive joint formation [33:18]
Where I first learned about what really makes an adhesive joint is a book called The Science of Adhesive Joints by J.J. Bikerman, 1961. Bikerman was a professor over here in civil engineering. He's an engineer — he wasn't some guy starting with gluons and the adhesion of quarks forming protons. He actually was an engineer, and so he looked at the kinetics of how we form an adhesive joint. We have a liquid, and it really doesn't matter whether it's type one — where we have surface tension giving us the strength due to the pressure difference between the inside and the outside, and you want a very thin joint — or it's mechanical interlocking, which is the more predominant type. You still are going to interpose some sort of liquid. That liquid could be a pretty thick liquid. If you bond bricks, mortar is your liquid, and your mechanical interlocks are pores in that brick. If you're bonding glass bricks, you have to have something else in your mortar to make it stick very well, or you have to sandblast the glass to get some surface roughness. That's how you do your surface prep for the two different types.
If I want to understand the spreading of a viscous liquid between two plates where I'm pushing down with one plate on the other — I sometimes call this the Scotch tape lecture. If you're trying to apply Scotch tape, you press that tape onto the surface, and it has this sticky adhesive, but you want to understand how thin you can get that joint, because that gets to be critical particularly for type one. There's something called the Stefan equation. If you go through Bikerman's book — I never have figured out if this is the same Stefan of Stefan-Boltzmann — he treats it as kinetics. You have some velocity, some height H times the length, you're flowing it out, and you've got some force necessary to do this. He goes through and solves all this. It ends up with a formula that says the force times the time over which you're doing this — because think of a shock absorber, you're pushing a viscous liquid, so the faster you push the bigger the force, the slower you do it the lower the force — the force-time product is equal to three times the viscosity times V which is volume, over 1 over H to the 4th which is the initial thickness, minus 1 over H₁ to the 4th which is the final thickness.
So the Stefan equation: the little f was a pressure, the big F is actually force. Force times time, or pressure times time, is 3/4 R² — the radius of this thing — times the viscosity, 1 over H_f² minus 1 over H₀². The other one that had H to the 4th power was because I had to move an area over πr². In all of this, this is the thickness, this is the radius, this is the pressure and the time and the viscosity. If I'm going to change some of these, I could change the thickness and get a thinner and thinner joint, just like those Johansson blocks. That's going to strengthen the joint as one over the thickness squared.
What can I do? I can't change R very much. I could try to apply more pressure, and you've seen people do that — if the Scotch tape falls off, if the masking tape falls off the wall, they go up and push harder. Apply more pressure, and it will stay up longer. It doesn't mean it'll stay up forever, because this is a viscous flow problem. That thing is just slowly creeping off the wall. In fact that's how all the adhesives work. It's basically interposing a viscous liquid between two solid surfaces. This is the kinetics of forming the joint. It's also the kinetics of breaking the joint.
Student: Have epoxy in that as well?
Yes, we're going to talk about that. You're just jumping about two minutes ahead. What else can I change here? I can change the pressure — that's just linear. This goes as the square. What else can I change? Viscosity. How can I change the viscosity, and how much can I change it? I can change it by ten orders of magnitude. I can go from a liquid to a solid. If this is the kinetics of forming the joint, and I put a low-viscosity liquid in, I can form it very quickly. Then if that converts to a solid, all of a sudden I have five or six orders of magnitude increase in time. How many seconds in a year? About 10 to the 8th. So if I get 10 orders of magnitude, this thing could last for 10 years. Many of you know adhesive joints under stress really don't usually last 10 years. They might last two or three years. Start looking at this — it sort of works out.
All you're doing with adhesive bonding in most cases is trying to find adhesives that increase the viscosity. Bikerman gives some typical values of how long it takes to form a joint. This is right out of his book. Force and pressure: 14 PSI, 1.4 PSI. Viscosity in gram-seconds per centimeter squared — centipoise. There's also Saybolts which are kinematic. Viscosity units are just as bad as slugs and pounds. Radius 1 cm, 10 cm, different thicknesses of joints, 10 mils, 1 mil initial thicknesses, and the time to form the joint: 7-1/2 milliseconds, 75 seconds, or 7500 seconds.
§6. Beer bottle labels and the economics of bonding speed [40:42]
Now we get to something critical: putting the labels on beer bottles. You have to have a very low viscosity liquid to be able to put the label on a beer bottle in the time you have available. How much time do you have available to slap that label on a beer bottle? They're going through at about a case a second through the bottling lines. Some are only 20 bottles a second, but typically the bottles are about 20 a second, the cans about 24 a second. They're on a great big wheel almost the diameter of this room. It takes more than 1/24th of a second to fill the liquid into that can or bottle. They're actually under the filling spout for about a third or a half of a revolution. So it's taking a third of a second just to shoot that liquid in there. They've got a person sitting there, and when the beer bottle isn't completely full — it's got a lot of foam — they pull it off the conveyor line and throw it over their shoulder into a dumpster. You look at the dumpster, they have a 3/4 inch hole and the beer is just draining out about halfway into a drain pipe on the floor. That's what happens to the beer. When I went through these plants — which was thirty years ago — beer at that time cost 16 cents a gallon to brew. Today maybe it's 32 cents a gallon. Beer is cheap.
The person there said, well, I used to work for Welch's grape juice and the grape juice cost $9 a gallon, and whenever we had a packaging problem we had to figure out how to recover the grape juice because it had real value. The nice thing about making beer is, it's not much more valuable than water and you just run it down the drain. Now that's not true — beer actually costs more. Why? Marketing. You're paying for all those ads you see. But that's another story. In order to have an adhesive for something as simple as the labels on a beer bottle, it has to be very low viscosity in order to make the joint quickly enough.
§7. Three ways to increase viscosity: solvents, polymerization, melting [43:09]
How do I increase the viscosity of something once I've made the joint? There are three basic ways. Viscosity can actually vary by about 20 orders of magnitude. Viscosity is just amount of displacement versus force over time. You want the longest period of time, the smallest displacement, and the biggest force, to measure a high viscosity. I mentioned Egon Orowan, who was one of the guys who discovered dislocations by watching the maid curl the rug and kick it across the room. Professor Orowan — a mechanical engineer, he's passed away, he'd be about 110 if he was still alive — once estimated the viscosity of the Finnish coastline. All the rocks in Finland, at 10 to the 22nd poise. I don't know if it's poise or centipoise, but when you get 10 to the 22nd, who cares? Viscosity can change by about 20 orders of magnitude, from something rock solid like a piece of sapphire or diamond, in terms of shear strength, to a very low viscosity liquid. Water is about 1 centipoise. Gases are about a thousand times more fluid. If you start looking at the shear strength of diamond, you'll find it's about 10 to the 18th. I don't know how he got his 10 to the 22nd for the Finnish coastline, because who had the force gauge there for the last million years?
How do you increase the viscosity? Take a postage stamp. It's dry. How did you lower the viscosity in order to use it? The old postage stamps you had to lick. You interposed water, lowered the viscosity, and then you let the water wick away through the paper. That's called solvent removal. Postage stamps. Elmer's Glue — remember eating the glue in kindergarten, you could stick your finger in the white glue. If you left the top off the bottle, it hardened up. Solvent removal — that's a common type.
You mentioned epoxies. Epoxies: polymerization. You start with liquids, you make your joint, and then you allow a polymerization reaction to go on.
Student: Yeah, but epoxies and cyanoacrylates are really fundamentally different in terms of what you can do with them, right?
Student: Like cyanoacrylate — you could never use a cyanoacrylate for, for example — the epoxies are used as, like, when you're building a structure for anchoring different components to each other, and you have trouble aligning them, you just put them all in a fixture and squirt epoxy in joints to fill in the space. So cyanoacrylates are really bad at filling large gaps, right?
You're also thinking of epoxies as sort of these gummy things, high viscosity. I've seen epoxies that are almost as fluid as cyanoacrylates — not as fluid, but like maple syrup — when they're liquid. They typically have a mixing gun, a little screw, and they come squirting out fairly fluid. You're right, when I'm trying to fixture something I actually want something that's got a little stiffness, a higher viscosity. But I just gave up two or three orders of magnitude on bonding strength, because I started out with something I'm not going to get this thin — I'm not going to use the thinness of the Stefan equation there. I'm going to do mechanical interlocking on a macro scale, when I'm anchoring bolts in the wall, or like the OMAX water jets — a lot of that machine is just epoxied together for vibration resistance, fatigue, and fretting. It's epoxied together because they want everything stiff in terms of lack of fretting.
Cyanoacrylates, for those of you that are not familiar: Crazy Glue. It's a polymerization reaction. What's the catalyst? It is water, but what type of water specifically? Hydroxy radicals. It's not just water. Crazy Glue sticks better to paper than it does to wood, because paper is slightly basic. It sticks your fingers together really well because your pH is slightly above 7. For surgery, yes — Dermabond. Because it's the OH that drives the polymerization. If you look at the polymerization reaction of cyanoacrylates, it's the OH. You have OH even in things that are acidic — there's an equilibrium with water — it's just you have a lot more OH's in things that are basic. Crazy Glue doesn't work as well on most woods because woods are slightly acidic. Your fingers are basic and it glues them together just great.
There's another one: Loctite. It's now a billion-dollar corporation. What's the polymerization reaction with the Loctite? It's anaerobic. You've heard of aerobics — aerobics is with oxygen, anaerobic is without oxygen. Loctite, when you put it down inside the threads of a screw, there's no air around. If you go looking at your Loctite adhesive, you'll find somewhere in that system they have a little hole so the air can get in but the liquid won't get out in your jar, because once you exclude the air this thing polymerizes.
Student: What about UV?
UV — I should probably add a fourth. There are three common ones, but for sandpaper, for example, the rate at which they make sandpaper, you cannot afford to slow down your line to bond the sand to the paper to wait for solvent removal or polymerization — these things are too slow. And the other one, which is melting, I might as well tell you about: melting. So I'll add UV or electron beam. [Tom writes on the board.]
In a sense they're part of polymerization, because all you're doing is breaking a bond with the electrons or the ultraviolet light, and you're allowing it to polymerize. There's a lot of proprietary technology, but sandpaper is often electron beam. They put down wet sand basically with an adhesive, and then it goes through a high-power electron beam which polymerizes it very rapidly because they can't wait for the chemical kinetics of polymerization — the diffusion kinetics — or solvent removal evaporation. They could be sucking with a huge vacuum system, but how do you seal the stuff coming into the vacuum system if you've got sandpaper? Just like the speed at which you slap on labels on beer bottles is an issue, the speed at which you bond sand to sandpaper is an issue, and people speed these things up by UV and electron beam curing. I've never heard of a laser cure process, but lasers don't have enough energy per photon, unless you had a UV laser. If we had a UV laser we could do all kinds of neat things. Actually they have spent billions of dollars trying to develop x-ray lasers. That's another story.
So that's basically how you do it. Just increase the viscosity. Use the Stefan equation — well, whoever uses the Stefan equation. I've only met one other joining engineer who even knew what the Stefan equation was, but it's fundamental to adhesive bonding.
§8. Critical surface tension: from PVC to Teflon [52:58]
Now let's talk about — this comes out of the second edition of Skeist. He's got a bunch of hydrocarbon compounds, from polyvinyl chloride: a carbon backbone, two chlorines and two hydrogens in the chain. He lists the coefficient of friction. Remember I told you friction or lubrication is the opposite of joining. He's looking at coefficient of friction. The guy who wrote this chapter was at the Naval Research Lab — a good chemist. He was looking at the bonding, critical surface tension in dynes per centimeter, which is ergs per square centimeter, which is 0.001 joules per square meter. Polyvinyl chloride: 40. One chlorine rather than two drops to 39. Polyethylene — there's my pipe — 31, all hydrogens. Put a fluorine in there, polyvinyl fluoride: 28. Two fluorines: 25. Polytrifluoroethylene, three fluorines: 22. Four fluorines, Teflon: drops to 18. Teflon has the lowest surface tension of virtually any solid. We'll talk about water on ice and things on Monday.